Andean Explorer = Once in a lifetime experience

January 22, 2012 - Wow is all I can say about my 10 hour journey yesterday on the Andean Explorer from Cuzco to Puno. Even without contrasting it to my previous train experiences (sure NE USA and Europe have nice trains, Bangkok to Southern Thailand sleeper train was fun with my buddies Josh and Colleen and Mike, India third class train was an experience I will never forget and not in a good way) this train was amazing. From the moment I dropped off my bag and walked into the receiving room where a group was playing traditional Cuzco music, it was a delightfully-touristy experience that was just authentic enough not to be too cheesy.

Stepping into Coach A (the only passenger coach) was like stepping back into the early 1900s. Not that I have ever been on a train from the early 1900s, but it was just like the movies. White tableclothes, dim lamps, comfy chairs that look like they came from my great-grandma's living room, a little vase with a rose. Beautiful. And the service staff was amazing. There was capacity for maybe 50 passengers but were only about 20 on board. By the end of the trip we had all chatted and shared travel advice. I met a very nice and interesting women named Mitey and also some guys who lived in Bethesda.
 

After we exited Cuzco city limits we were invited to the rear coach which is the observation deck with huge windows on the sides and ceiling and an open back. I've posted a few pictures here but there are tons more on Facebook.

 

Shortly after departing we were treated to more music from Cuzco and a fashion show of knitwear.

 Then the landscape really became beautiful as we began climbing to 4,321 meters above sea level, past snow capped mountains, to La Raya. There we stopped at a local market and I bought a sweater that is supposedly alpaca. I don't really care - it is warm!

After getting back on the train I had a delicious lunch of quinoa soup, trout filet with plantain/sweet potato-ish mixture on side, and chocolate mousse, plus a glass of Peruvian wine. (I didn't know they made wine in Peru, it was a decent Malbec.)

As we arrived on the altiplano, the landscape had started to flatten out and get less exciting aside from the random llama or alpaca herd grazing nearby, so I took a short siesta and read for a bit. Then it was back to the lounge for bar tending lessons. After a demonstration, my new friend Mitey made a pisco sour, which is not easy on a rickety train. Then there was more music and traditional dances, this time from Puno.

One of the dancers made everyone get up and dance with her so video of me dancing may be leaked at some point ;) 

Next it was afternoon tea time, which was accompanied with mini sandwiches and chocolates, and a drink similar to a mimosa but with a different kind of juice (maybe mango?). Soon after we passed through Juliaca, which was crowded and rundown. Then the landscape began to change a bit as we neared Puno. First I noticed the terrain became very rocky with mountains in the horizon, not as close to the train like earlier. Then we started seeing small marshes and streams, foretelling of the lake. And finally I got my first glimpse of Lake Titicaca. At first it was just a narrow strip and I thought "that's it?" but then as we continued I saw it was a long but narrow lake worthy of its renown. Arriving into Puno city at dusk was a little bit of a let down compared to the wonderous landscapes of the countryside, but I felt a nervous anticipation as I arrived in my home for the next three months.



I checked into my room on Jiron Azoguine. It is quite large, probably near the size of me and Mike's first apartment minus a kitchen. I have a bed, wardrobe, desk, small couch, TV, private bath, and big window overlooking the city with the lake in the distance. My room is in a building that is basically a long-term inn connected to Hernan's house, with a small restaurant downstairs  (where I can have breakfast for 1 sol). I spoke with the landlord, Hernan, about using the kitchen to cook dinner at night. So I think this place will work out just fine, as long as the shower situation gets better. It was cold last night :( In fact, it is cold in Puno in general. You don't realize how much we take heaters for granted in the US. Last night I slept in two layers of PJ pants (one fleece), wool socks, an under armor shirt and fleece, and a wool hat, plus my bed has four wool blankets. Definitely have to buy some more warm stuff at the market! 


Ok that's all off to explore now.