February 20, 2012 - This weekend we Tres Gringas escaped to the beach to enjoy some warm weather and sun! I left Friday with Lisa for the 5-5.5 hour journey to Ilo. What an experience. We took a colectivo/cooperativa/combi, which is basically a 12-passenger van. Not the most comfortable of journeys but I fortunately had lots of leg room as I was right behind the driver. We arrived at the office at 1:30 for our 2 p.m. trip. Well we didn’t end up boarding the van until 3 p.m. and leaving until 3:30. Apparently they just wait until it is full, even if that takes FOREVER. So eventually we excitedly get on the road only to stop a few blocks away for the driver to get a new spare tire. Which turned out to be good because we needed it not too long into the drive. Finally we are on the road around 4 p.m. The views were beautiful as we left the city, passed the lake, and wound around curvy roads with green hills and bizarre rock formations. Then, slowly, the vegetation turned drier and more sparse as we left the altiplano and headed for the mountains. We made one more stop along the way (in addition to the tire change) to pick up an extra passenger. Yeah, just some guy with a suitcase waving down the combi who had to squish in the back with two other adults and two children. Felt a bit like a train in India.
Saturday morning I woke up early and went for a run on the boardwalk. Ilo is definitely a port town, but with gorgeous views. The juxtaposition of desert and ocean is beautiful and jarring.
After my run, I returned back to the hotel to find out that we had no water, a common theme here in Peru, and had to wait two hours for a shower. But at last, I was clean, and we were ready to explore. Lisa and I had a nice breakfast at the market consisting of watermelon and churros. Then we wondered over to the Plaza de Armas, which is friendly and flower-filled. I couldn’t resist an helado on the street next to the plaza, which has probably five ice cream shops and five chifa restaurants. Then we headed to the beach. Again, bizarre because of the desert setting, you have to take a taxi about 10-15 minutes through industrial parks and vacant desert hills until you turn down a long dusty road that ultimately ends in a beach. With hundreds of colorful umbrellas and chairs, it didn’t look so different than Ocean City, MD, except for the desert behind you.
The hour or so drive to Moquegua was so interesting because it revealed the beautiful desert we’d driven through Friday night without even knowing it. Moquegua, on the other hand, left much to be desired, so we tried to get out of there as fast as possible. However, we were again stuck on a combi waiting one passenger. “Uno para Puno” we heard for over an hour as they tried to fill our van. At one point a passenger, a young guy, got out and joined in the advertising. Finally we got our uno para Puno and headed off. This trip was also interesting although it was quickly too dark to see much of the countryside, but the sunset over the desert hills in bright reds was breathtaking. We made one stop about halfway and the stars were so bright and plentiful, I could have stayed their gazing for awhile but was quickly hurried back in by the other passengers. At last we arrived back in Puno. I was happy to see the city lights and get off the bus and back to my room, but I was not happy to be welcomed back by frigid temperatures. We may have to take another beach trip soon!
As night fell we climbed up snowcapped mountains and it started to snow. A few hours later, unbeknownst to us at the time because it was dark, we entered the desert. And finally we arrived at the beach. So within just a few hours journey we encountered four unique geographies and went through huge temperature drop and then climb back up.
Exhausted, we arrived in Ilo at our quaint little hotel, delighted by the warm breeze coming in the window. One of the best feelings was taking my socks off for bed, instead of putting on an extra pair, and sleeping under only a sheet. Ahhh…..
Saturday morning I woke up early and went for a run on the boardwalk. Ilo is definitely a port town, but with gorgeous views. The juxtaposition of desert and ocean is beautiful and jarring.
After my run, I returned back to the hotel to find out that we had no water, a common theme here in Peru, and had to wait two hours for a shower. But at last, I was clean, and we were ready to explore. Lisa and I had a nice breakfast at the market consisting of watermelon and churros. Then we wondered over to the Plaza de Armas, which is friendly and flower-filled. I couldn’t resist an helado on the street next to the plaza, which has probably five ice cream shops and five chifa restaurants. Then we headed to the beach. Again, bizarre because of the desert setting, you have to take a taxi about 10-15 minutes through industrial parks and vacant desert hills until you turn down a long dusty road that ultimately ends in a beach. With hundreds of colorful umbrellas and chairs, it didn’t look so different than Ocean City, MD, except for the desert behind you.
We were quite conspicuous as gringas but ignored the stares and plopped ourselves down for several hours of sun bathing. The water was cold but refreshing, and the sun was super strong. After a few hours, we settled in at a cevicheria off the beach but were disappointed with the quality of the food. Then finally Angela arrived from Arequipa, just as the sun was starting to fall in the sky and the wind was picking up. At first we worried that we’d be cold that night but once we got back to the city we found it was still pleasantly warm and perfect for a walk to a restaurant for dinner and then home. We also watched the movie 50/50, which is very good if you haven’t seen it.
Sunday I woke up early again and read my book until the other girls got up. Then we ventured off to find breakfast. Finally fed and satisfied with coffee, we went to get our tickets home. However, there were no buses until the evening and they were all full anyways. Ugh. So after some running around we determined we’d have to take the combi again, from Moquegua, the hub in that area. But first we’d have to take a bus there. We had a few hours to spare so we relaxed in the grass near the boardwalk, soaking in our last few hours of sun. We had a quick lunch – and were pleased to find some good ceviche although the service was not good – and then headed to the bus station. Worried we’d be late, we had to laugh when we showed up on time and were the first people on the bus.
The hour or so drive to Moquegua was so interesting because it revealed the beautiful desert we’d driven through Friday night without even knowing it. Moquegua, on the other hand, left much to be desired, so we tried to get out of there as fast as possible. However, we were again stuck on a combi waiting one passenger. “Uno para Puno” we heard for over an hour as they tried to fill our van. At one point a passenger, a young guy, got out and joined in the advertising. Finally we got our uno para Puno and headed off. This trip was also interesting although it was quickly too dark to see much of the countryside, but the sunset over the desert hills in bright reds was breathtaking. We made one stop about halfway and the stars were so bright and plentiful, I could have stayed their gazing for awhile but was quickly hurried back in by the other passengers. At last we arrived back in Puno. I was happy to see the city lights and get off the bus and back to my room, but I was not happy to be welcomed back by frigid temperatures. We may have to take another beach trip soon!
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