April 3, 2012 - Inca Trail Day 1

We began our Inca Trail adventure bright and early, with a 5 a.m. bus pickup, which felt very early since we’d been up late braiding our hair, in matching pigtails  (obviously). We were told we could sleep on the bus ride to Ollantaytambo but I was too busy snapping photos of the sunrise shining off the snowy mountaintops we could see off in the distance the entire way. We stopped for a quick breakfast where we got to know our fellow trekmates. In addition to Ceri and Pete, who we had already met, there was Steph and Erin, also from London. Kristy and I joked that maybe we’d pick up British accents on the trip (which we did find ourselves doing!).

Then we continued on, past Ollantaytambo and down a windy dirt road that did not seem like the main thoroughfare to a major tourist destination. Finally we arrived at a large parking lot where a few other buses where offloading trekkers. We prepared our bags for the porters, hit our last clean bathroom for several days, and then started off to the checkpoint to officially enter the trail.

Our first steps were crossing a gushing Urubamba River. Then we started a gradual uphill, enjoying the gorgeous scenery around us. For the next few hours we hiked, stopping every 20 minutes or so for a break, a snack, sometimes a bathroom. At one “trailside” stand we enjoyed a fresh prickly pear, right off the cactus. Along the way, our guide Erik shared information about the plants we were passing, the history of the trail, and other cultural notes. When we saw the Perurail train chugging by he introduced us to the concept of train riders as cheaters!

We also got our first glimpse at how hard the porters work. They started after us and no more than an hour or so in they were running past us, all carrying 25 kilos on their backs. Apparently there is a porters race from mile 82 until the finish of the trail and the record is 3 hours 30 minutes. Considering the trail distance is just a bit longer than a marathon that might now seem so fast, but that’s without accounting for the rough trail conditions, steep hills, and high altitude. With those in mind, it is truly an amazing feat!

At one point we stopped to examine a cactus and Erik explained how the white fungus-looking stuff on the cacti was actually bugs, which the local people use to make dyes and lipstick. This was the same thing we had learned in Chinchero. Erik explained that many local plants are exported to other countries used for natural products.

The hike was quite relaxing until we began a steep uphill, which Erik told us was a prelude to Dead Women’s Pass the next day. But this hill was short, and we easily reached the top a little out of breath but no worse for the wear. Then we stopped at another trailside stand where women were selling chicha, the fermented corn drink. Erik enjoyed one, as were many of the porters who had stopped along the way, and shared a sip with us. We also saw donkeys nuzzling each other in the field – so cute. It is surprising how many horses, cows, and donkeys you see along steep hillsides around the trail. It seems like they come out of nowhere, but Erik explained that there are villages all around, hidden by the mountains and the trees.

Later that day we passed through several villages along the trail. It was fascinating to see people walking past us with donkeys carrying goods like pasta, rice, and potatoes. Can you imagine if to get to the market each day you had to hike on a trail that other people do for recreation? At one stop we had a good laugh as two tiny black dogs harassed a passing donkey. Ironically the bigger, older dog stayed out of the fray, too wise – or maybe lazy – to be bothered. At a nearby stop there was a full-scale convenience store and bar, right on the trail.

The end of the day seemed to drag on as we faced a gradual but long uphill to our first campsite. We arrived huffing and puffing, but looking back nothing compared to how tired we were the following days. Our porter team greeted us with applause, again ironic because they had it made it there before us and already set up the tents and started dinner. But it was a sweet gesture. At this point Erik introduced us to the team and we took a group picture. It was nice to have a sense of comraderie with the team, like we were all in it together for these four days.

Then we had our first nightly happy hour, which consisted of popcorn, cookies, and tea. Luckily Steph and Erin had brought cards so we enjoyed several games of Shithead, a game I had learned from Josh and thoroughly enjoy. In subsequent nights our card games also included Spoons and Bullshit (me and Kristy’s recommendations which were big hits), Rummy, which was a little rough because the Brits follow different rules, and even Egyptian Ratscrew, which we taught Erik on the last night.

After that we had a delicious dinner. I can’t actually remember what we had each night, but it was all wonderful. Then we went to bed, exhausted from a full day of hiking.

Cuzco with Kristy

March 31, 2012 - I have been slacking on the blog and now I need to recap the last week with Kristy before I take off for travels again with Mike. So, I’ll start with Saturday morning, March 31. I headed off to Cuzco via a comfortable but slow bus ride on Tour Peru. I arrived around 3 p.m., happy and a little nervous for some odd reason. After haggling with a taxi driver (because I’m sick of being ripped off) and finally settling to be dropped at the bottom of the hotel’s street and hike the last three blocks straight up hill (bad idea) I arrived at Hostel Corihuasi. Kristy answered the door obviously sleepy from her rest after the long overnight flight, so my timing was perfect. We quickly got ready and headed out to explore Cuzco.

The weather was beautiful so we ate outside at Los Portales near San Francisco Plaza. Before enjoying our palta a la reina (avocado stuffed with chicken salad) and lemonade we were bombarded by tons of people trying to sell us various artesania. Kristy bought a doll, the “Barbie of Cuzco.” Then we headed over to SAS Travel to pay for the rest of our trip and explored a bit more of the city before heading back to our hotel for a cup of coca tea. We ended the night with a dinner at Brava, where I enjoyed stuffed chicken parmesan and Kristy had risotto croquettes. Although it was delicious, we were so tired by the end we were nearly falling asleep in our plates!  So we called it a night and curled up in our cozy room with a heater and down comforters, a welcome change for me from Puno.

The next morning we had a delightful breakfast at our hotel (eggs, yogurt and granola, tea, and warm fresh bread) with a view of Cuzco out the wrap around windows and then headed off early to the SAS office to meet up with the group for our free Sacred Valley tour.

There were 11 of us on the tour, two families from Pittsburgh and two friends from London, who we quickly found out would also be joining us on the Inca Trail. We all piled into the SAS mini bus and headed through winding roads past some of the ruins overlooking Cuzco and into the Sacred Valley. The views were gorgeous with rolling green hills, steep mountains, and gushing rivers. Our first stop was a touristy market where Kristy petted an alpaca and got her first taste of Peru’s cheap but beautiful handicrafts and how hard it is to resist buying them – basically she didn’t. Then we continued on to Pisac where we both fell victim to pretty things. We got matching embroidered pictures we are planning to frame for our offices (future office in my case) and I got a really unique painting of the reed boats from Lake Titicaca, a fitting souvenir I thought since I spent so much time here. We also found baby alpaca yarn at about half the price it was in Puno so I bought some for Mom and then kicked myself for not buying more.

Then we winded up the road to the ruins at Pisac. Our tour guide, Martin, gave a nice explanation of Inca terraces, which in this site at least were used for experimenting with different types of agriculture. The Incas cultivated dozens of types of potatoes and corn. This site was also one of the largest Inca cemetaries, and you could still see holes in the mountainside from where tombs were uncovered due to erosion and exploitation.

Kristy wasn’t feeling well from the altitude so this is probably not her favorite part of the trip. But luckily she felt better as the day went on.

Our second stop was delayed by engine trouble for our bus so we stopped in a tiny little town, which turned out to be nice because instead of eating the 30 soles buffet at the tourist restaurant in Urubamba we ate a still touristy but somewhat more authentic restaurant that was also much less expensive. Then our bus was fixed and we continued on to Ollantaytambo, which was awesome!

I wish we had more time to explore the narrow, ancient alleyways of this “living Inca town.” It is a great example of the Inca’s city planning, which included zoned areas, sophisticated irrigation and drainage systems, and designing cities in symbolic shapes. For example, Ollantaytambo was designed in the shape of an ear of corn, an important symbol and food for the Inca’s. Cuzco, the capital city, used to be in the shape of the puma, the sacred animal representing the “middle world.” And Machu Picchu is in the shape of the condor, the animal representing the “upper world” or heaven because it was thought to carry people up to the sky when they die.

What we did get to explore in Ollantaytambo was the “Fortress Ruins,” although our guide, Martin, explained that while the structures were used last as a fortress during the Incas last stand against the Spanish, they were originally temples and astronomical observatories, as evidenced by the sophisticated stone work and symbols that only exist in sacred Inca places. Also, the mountain across from the ruins has the face of Wiracocha, the supreme god of the Incas, carved in it, as well as another face that is hidden during the solstices, indicating its astronomical importance. The mountain also features a natural food storage structure, which took advantage of the wind and high altitude to keep foods cool. Pretty neat.

At this point in the tour we were running behind so we headed off as the sun was starting to set for Chinchero. Along the way we saw a huge rainbow crossing the valley, which we later learned was seen by the Incas as a sign of the end of the rainy season and the time to plant crops. When we arrived in the town of Chinchero, which is itself an archeological site, it was dark, and we climb quickly up to visit a colonial church. Then we passed through a busy artesan market to visit an almost hidden women’s cooperative. There a young women, in quite impressive English, walked us through the process of how they make wool for traditional textiles. First, she showed us how they clean the wool using a native root. It turned alpaca wool instantly from dirty to sparkling white. Then they use natural products for dyes, such as bugs that grow on cacti. We were all amazed as she crushed what looked like a small white seed and it made a brilliant red color on her hand. She told us they use this product for natural lipstick too, and joked that it is kiss-proof. Other colors were made from seeds, leaves, and flowers. Plus they add things like lemon juice to change the colors. After that she explained the process of drying and then spinning the wool, which she joked women can do while walking, talking, dancing, even kissing their husbands. Then she showed us the weaving process, which was very similar to the exquisite techniques I had seen in Guatemala. We were thrilled to finally see some original handicrafts that weren’t carbon copies of everything you see in all the stores (although we did later see similar things in Cuzco) so Kristy and I bought some table mantels.

Now quite dark, our group headed back out of Chinchero and home to Cuzco. It was an exhausting day but a great glimpse into the diverse and interesting cultures in Peru. For me it was nice to be a tourist for a change and actually learn about the meanings behind many things I have seen but not understood in the last two months.

The next day we were going to check out the other ruins near Cuzco but decided to sleep in and take it easy instead. We walked around San Blas, enjoyed a very Gringa lunch at Jack’s Café (I nearly melted when I tasted my juicy burger!), checked out a history museum and the chocolate museum, and shopped until we dropped. We also visited the Santo Domingo church and Qoricancha. This was a fascinating place, well worth the $5 we paid for a guide. The Spanish built a church and convent on top of the Inca Temple, so everywhere you turn you see the juxtaposition of old and new, pagan and Christian. As our guide must have said a hundred times, the innovative Inca architecture has long outlasted the Spanish designs through earthquakes. Each time, the Spanish would rebuild using their same process of stone with cement, even though the Inca technique of fitting stones together without cement or mud and using trapezoidal shapes with slight inclines rather than straight square/rectangle shapes had clearly stood the test of time. We also learned more about the beliefs of the Incas, such as that temples for “male” deities like the sun were adorned with gold while “female” ones like the moon temple were decorated with silver. The temple also featured an interesting painting of the Milky Way, showing the animals the Incas thought appeared in the constellation, including a black llama and baby, a frog, a snake, and a condor, all of which have important meanings.

Later that night we got to see a processional for Semana Santa. Right as it was getting started, rain began pouring down, so we ran into an Internet café. With a few hours to kill before our orientation meeting, we decided to get a massage. After all, it only cost $8! It wasn’t the greatest massage ever, but it was relaxing. Then we headed to the orientation meeting and home to pack for the Inca Trail!

More to come on that amazing adventure….

Freak Out Moment

March 23, 2012 - Despite a very productive day (only 119 surveys left and two more interviews schedule for next week!) I reached a breaking point today. Maybe this is something that happens to everyone doing this type of research. I hope. I'd like to think I'm not alone. So what happened? I had a terrible thought pass through my mind. I almost hate to say it out loud, but here goes. I thought, why am I doing this again?

What led to this moment of self-doubt, or maybe better to call it project-doubt? Well, first I got some not-so-positive feedback on my initial analysis outline (where I basically said here is what I hope to be able to say). Then, I was happily entering the 38 surveys I collected today only to find out that several clients completed only half the survey. So frustrating because I'm really trying to maintain a decent level of data quality.

While I realize these frustrations are normal, especially in programmatic research, it got me thinking, is this research even going to be useful? All these questions start popping into my head. For example, we decided to focus on client behaviors, but maybe a health knowledge test would have revealed more useful results. Can you really show a difference in behaviors between new and old clients with a sample of only 5%, which aren't even all complete? And obviously I should have done multiple choice for questions like where do you live and what is your business because the women wrote so many different things it will be impossible to reconcile them. And why didn't I make the range of membership bigger? Everyday women laugh at me when I say "más de 2 años?" Of course, they say, años, más de 10!" On top of the survey shortcomings I start thinking about my interviews too. With only three left to do I'm still wanting to add questions, but then I won't have that data for all clients.

Cue minor freak out. But...deep breaths...and I start thinking back to the preliminary analysis I did. Sure, it probably needs some tweaking, and it won't be perfect. But, based on the surveys collected so far, I've found that longer-term clients were more likely to have had a PAP in the last year. That's interesting and certainly valuable to Pro Mujer as PAPs are a key metric. Also, longer-term clients were more likely to report good health than bad (although overall this variable is dismal). Also, I've found that while the concept of exercise is foreign to most clients, many of them walk for several hours everyday. Hours!

So, after a "calm moment" as we used to say in college, plus a little internal pep talk, I've decided, my research is valuable. And hopefully Pro Mujer will use this information, plus direct suggestions I pass on from our clients, to improve their health services and health education.

Ok, all good now. Back to work....

Glorious Arequipa

March 21, 2012 - Well last weekend we once again escaped the cold and dreariness of Puno and finally visited Arequipa. Everyone told me I was going to love Arequipa, but I had no idea how much until I arrived! It was quite a weekend and I've already re-capped it via email for some of you so here are some highlights (in somewhat chronological order):

1. Arriving in the evening and being able to walk around after dark without freezing. Plus marveling at all the people out and about and all the options for restaurants and bars.
2. Eating Mexican food for the first time in more than two months. Delicious make-your-own tacos and a Corona. Yum.
3. Walking around Saturday morning, basking in the beautiful scenery and sun.
4. Eating a late breakfast outside. Quiche and fresh fruit juice. Yum.
5. Relaxing by the pool (yes, pool!) at our awesome hostel, the Wild Rover.
6. Getting wild and crazy for St. Patty's Day, which started around 4 with beers (Guinness!), face paint, and green t-shirts.
7. Helping with the bar's attempt at breaking a record for Baby Guinness shots. Yum.
8. Being served drinks by a real Irishman on St. Patty's Day and asking him if I look Irish, to which he responded no, but I can definitely tell you are European. Um, no...
9. Eating falafel. Yum.
10. Realizing it was only 7 p.m. after eating falafel and feeling ready for bed.
11. Dancing on the bar.
12. Losing my camera but then finding it.
13. Meeting lots of new friends, mostly Americans.
14. Calling it a night at 10 p.m.
15. Waking up early to explore the city more.
16. Getting a tour from our co-worker Gaby and her friends which included delicious food and visiting several "miradors" or look out points all around the city that we would never have seen on our own.
17. An exotic lunch including fried cuy (guinea pig), stuffed peppers, a potato dish similar to scallop potatoes, pork, duck, and later fried dough desserts.
18. Eventually heading back to Puno, feeling much relieved that Bloodsport, the movie we were forced to endure on the way there, was replaced with two decent movies on the way home.

Immediately after getting home I updated our itinerary for when Mike comes to visit, two days in Arequipa are a must!

T-Minus One Month

March 15, 2012 – One month of work left at Pro Mujer and I'm half way there...almost. I have completed 5 interviews out of 10 (yay!) but only about 160 surveys out of 357. Needless to say the next four weeks will be very busy! Wait, make that three, because one whole week I'm traveling with Kristy in Cuzco. AHH!

I've mentioned before the frustrations of getting people to take a survey. It takes me back to my days as a telephone surveyor during high school (worst job ever). This isn't quite as bad since you are doing the survey to help the people you're asking to take it, but still, imagine you go to the bank to make a payment on your loan or to the clinic for a health checkup and someone asks you to fill out a survey. Not that interested, right? Now imagine they speak English with a terrible accent. Yup, now you get the picture.

Despite this challenge, I've been chugging along with the surveys. Sometimes I walk into a room and, after a short and incredibly important introduction by the credit assessor (someone they know and trust), the woman all agree to participate. Other times, I have to practically twist arms just to get one or two surveys.

The interviews are a whole other logistical nightmare. I schedule the interview usually about one week in advance so I have to call to remind the women. Sometimes they answer, sometimes I leave a message, sometimes it’s a wrong number. Then I go to the appointed meeting place and wait. So far, I have been stood up three times, twice by the same person. Today I started recruiting a few more women to take the places of the ones that probably won’t ever happen.

However, when I actually do get to sit down with women, it is usually incredibly enjoyable and rewarding. I get a peek into their routines, their hopes and dreams, what they are proud of, and how Pro Mujer has changed their lives. Some are hesitant to answer my questions, giving me mostly one-word answers, but others open up, smile, and say surprising and insightful things.  

Feliz Día Internacional de la Mujer

March 9, 2012 - Yesterday was International Women's Day, a great day to reflect on how far women have come while also recognizing the challenges we still face around the world. I started the day reading some reports and articles put out by various health and development organizations and posting my attempt at being inspirational on Facebook. To my surprise, the day continued with much more celebration than expected.

First, I was greeted by all the staff at Centro Bellavista with a big hug and "feliz día." Wow, I thought, they really celebrate this day here. This was a surprise since most of my friends and family in the U.S. probably do not know it is International Women's Day, unless they work in health or development. But, as my colleague Marita pointed out, Peruvians like to celebrate EVERYTHING, so I shouldn't be surprised that this day is included.

Later in the day we learned there would be a meeting at 6 p.m. I expected snacks and maybe a few inspirational words, but was delighted when our male co-workers began giving short but heartfelt speeches about the importance of all the women in their lives - including us (their co-workers), mothers, grandmothers, sisters, daughters, and so on. I also loved the theme many mentioned, "No hace falta ser anti-hombre para ser pro-mujer." Or roughly being pro-woman doesn't mean you are anti-man. So true. Another co-worker commented that women are the essence of life, also a true and beautiful sentiment. So, feeling sufficiently celebrated, I was further delighted when the men asked us to close our eyes and presented each of us with a rose. Then, to top off the day, we all received Pro Mujer water bottles. Anyone who knows me well knows I am a sucker for free logo-ed items, so needless to say I was very happy. (Cue cheesy photo.)


Closing out the day, when a co-worker and I stopped in a store on the way home, even the woman running the store wished us a "feliz día." I thought about how important this day is in a country where women have gained rights, for example the right to work, in the more recent past than in the U.S, and where sadly many are still seen as second-class citizens in their homes. What a wonderful day to celebrate women and re-commit ourselves to improving the future for all the women in our lives and around the world. I went to bed feeling very grateful for the opportunity to be here working with so many amazing women AND men in Pro Mujer and doing some good, however small, for the women of Peru.

Sillustani

March 6, 2012 - This weekend we once again escaped from Puno, this time taking in the fresh air and beautiful views in Sillustani. Not an escape from the cold, as the weather turned quite chilly the moment we left Puno, but a nice break nonetheless.

After a short and enjoyable ride boasting comfy seats and views of the flooded but pretty countryside, we arrived in the small town of Sillustani, which is one of those towns that seems to only exist for the purpose of tourism. We slowly made our way up a muddy path until we began spotting stone towers on the hillside. Our guide carefully, and in much detail, told us about the history behind this "mystical" place. The towers are chullpas or funeral towers built by pre-Inca civilizations to bury dead nobility. Many of them lay incomplete or in ruins because the Spanish destroyed them for their strange, magnetic powers. I was a bit skeptical of these magical powers until our guide ran a compass in front of the rocks and it did indeed go haywire. Also, most of the towers have been pilfered for their valuable artifacts, some of which, thankfully, made it to a museum in Puno.

There were three main towers named after animals, the lizard, snake, and puma towers. Two remains of towers next to each other were sun and moon temples where offerings (and likely human and animal sacrifices were made). Apparently people were buried in the fetal position, preparing them for rebirth in their next life.

Given my short attention span for historical facts, those are the only details I recall. Mostly I spent my time taking in the crisp, pollution-free air and enjoying the delightful harmony of the blue sky, shimmering lake, green grass, and happy yellow flowers all around us. Plus, the occasional herd of cute llamas and alpacas (still can't tell the difference).

 
On the way home we stopped at a traditional home, the ever-so-stereotypical "cultural" experience that no good tourist trip in a developing country can leave out. Despite being cliche, it was enjoyable to see inside one of the stone courtyards we had passed on the way there. Inside were several small rooms, which seemed very bare and cold to me, except one which was decorated with a bright pink bedspread. Also quite comical, and maybe just for the tourists, was the tiny guinea pig (or cuy) house. Like all the houses we had passed, even the guinea pigs had two ceramic bulls on top for good luck.

Fun with Words

March 2, 2012 - For the last two weeks I have spent much time both at our centros focales and perusing the client database, both of which have given me opportunity to note the creativity of our clients in naming their groups or asociaciones comunales. So, I thought I'd share some of the more interesting.

Of course, there are numerous religiously themed names:
Dios Es Amor (God is Love)
Corazón de Jesus (Heart of Jesus)
Señor de los Milagros (Man of Miracles)
Cristo Rey (Christ King)
Virgen de Alta Gracia (Virgin of High Grace)
Virgen de Candelaria (Virgin of the Candelaria, Patron Saint of Puno)
and many other Virgins....


Others reflect where the women come from and the beautiful nature surrounding Puno:
Agua Bella (Beautiful Water)
Brisas del Lago (Lake Breezes)
Flor Bonita (Beautiful Flower)
Flor Puñena (Puno Flower)
Sol Andino (Andean Sun)
Las Divas Amazonas (The Amazonian Divas)
Jardin del Altiplano (Garden of the Altiplano)

Probably my favorite are the ones with hopeful messages for the future or what kind of women they want to be:
Despertando Hacia El Future (Awakening the Future)
Despierta Mujer (Awakened Woman)
El Future Es Nuestra (The Future is Ours)
Fe, Esperanza y Responsibilidad (Faith, Hope & Responsibility)
Fuerza y Desarrollo (Strength & Development)
Juntas Podemos (Together We Can)
La Luz de la Esperanza (The Light of Hope)
Las Alegres y Sonrientes (The Happy and Smiling)
Las Mariposas Sobresalientes (The Outstanding Butterflies)
Las Mujeres Unidas (The United Women)
Las Triunfaduras del Nuevo Milenio (The Winners of the New Millennium)
Nueva Vida (New Life)
Renacer (To Be Reborn)
Semilla Buena (Good Seed)
Trabajando Para Futuro (Working for the Future)
Amor y Paz (Love and Peace)
Cien Años de Alegria (100 Years of Joy)

And there was at least one that didn't make sense to me:
Botitas de Papa Noel (Santa's Boots) (?)

Poco a Poco

Apologies, I've been slacking on my blog as work picks up. Still awaiting IRB approval (what a nightmare) but I have been scheduling interviews and collecting surveys (that part isn't included in IRB, after many changes). Each day continues to have its ups and downs, such as yesterday. I had my first interview, just a practice one, and it went really well. I understood everything the woman said, and she seemed to understand me. She had an adorable 6-year-old daughter. We had a lovely conversation and I got some really good information.

Then, still riding the morning's high, I went in the afternoon to one of the centers to try to do more surveys and recruit more participants. In one group every woman except one declined to participate, so I had to stand there awkwardly while the one women (very slowly) filled in her survey and the rest seemed annoyed by my presence.

It is definitely hard being an outside researcher. And I completely understand why they feel the way they do. They've probably seen tons of outsiders come in, do research, and nothing changes. I myself have seen that in other projects I've worked on. I really hope that my research will make a difference in this case, and that Pro Mujer will make improvements that have a direct impact on its clients. The women I interviewed asked me about this very topic, and I told her about my plans to share the information with Pro Mujer so they can make improvements. She seemed pleased with my intentions.

It's also interesting how drastically different my encounters are with people around town. Take children for instance. One day at the center I was approached by a young boy, maybe 7 or 8, who walked right up to me unabashedly and said "Hi Gringa." He then proceeded to pepper me with questions about the U.S. He seemed delighted by my presence. Later that day, I was walking home and passed a small girl, maybe 3 or 4, and she pointed a stick she was holding at me and said "bang bang." I tried not to take it personally, but I have to admit it was a bit jarring to see this sweet face and then have her pretend to shoot you. Similarly, with the clients, some are happy to help and thank me for being there. Others ask pointed questions like "Why doesn't the U.S. do anything to help us?" That one really threw me, especially since Pro Mujer is a U.S.-based organization with many U.S. funders. But I try not to get too defensive in this situation, since I know the many atrocities the U.S. government has committed in this region in the past.

But, poco a poco, I'm getting my work done and growing more confident in what I'm doing. Here's to hoping the roller coaster continues on an upward climb...

Disembolso

February 25, 2012 - Well it was a busy week. I feel like I'm starting to get into a rhythm with my work. Also, the Spanish is coming along. It is most difficult for me when I'm out with friends, especially if the music is loud or the restaurant is crowded.

I wanted to share about the disembolso ceremony I got to watch this week. Disembolsos are loan disbursement meetings, where the women come to get their loan money either at the beginning of their membership or at the start of a new loan cycle. The loan cycles last six months. To bless the money so that it will help them prosper, they perform a small ceremony. What I first noticed was the smell of something burning, but I thought it was something coming in from the window. Then I saw the small charcoal fire burning in a cast iron "pan" type thing on the floor. After awhile, when the fire was good and smoky (and I was starting to have a hard time breathing, but the 20 or so women and handful of kids in the room seemed just fine) the women began one at a time pouring what looked like small seeds over the fire and then waving the bills and a bag of coins over the smoke. One-by-one, starting with the oldest women in the group, who looked about 80 to me but is probably only 60, they each took a turn "smoking" the money. Some said a few words, including the jefa of the center who blessed them to prosper and be able to pay their loans back without problem. I thought the ceremony was quite touching and appreciated that Pro Mujer not only allows them to perform it but actually facilitates it. I understand the ceremonies don't take place in every group or every center, but where it is tradition, Pro Mujer honors it.

Afterwards, the women celebrated with a large bottle of Inka Cola and wafer cookies, at which point I excused myself and wished them good luck, feeling grateful to have had a glimpse into this aspect of their culture.

Roller Coaster Ride

February 21, 2012 - I almost posted a whiny blog yesterday about my frustrating day, but I decided to sleep on it and, sure enough, today was better. My time in Peru has definitely been like a roller coaster with many ups and downs and twists and turns. So rather than subject you all to my whininess, let me just summarize. Yesterday I was feeling a severe lack of support for my research. I got stood up for a meeting that someone else had scheduled (not the first time) and was thinking I was getting nowhere. However, today I had a very productive meeting with a different colleague to discuss recruitment for my interviews. Based on that meeting I put together a plan of action and quickly got approval from my preceptor. I’m so glad to see a path forward for my interviews, since they are my primary reason for coming here. Then I had a nice chat with my new faculty advisor who talked me down from what was probably a terrible plan to try to do, as she put it, “two CEs within one.” (CE is what GW calls our theses. Technically a mini-thesis, although that label doesn’t make it seem any less daunting.) So, I think I’m on the right path.

I’m sure the roller coaster will continue to jolt me throughout the next eight weeks (whose counting) but I have been trying to keep things in perspective. Professional frustrations exist in the States too, of course, and are nothing compared to the major life problems faced by the clients I’m working with at Pro Mujer. Or even those faced by other development professionals. For example, I finally just started reading The Blue Sweater by Jacqueline Novogratz, founder of Acumen Fund, which I have been meaning to read forever. Her stories of being completely rejected by colleagues in several countries in Africa make my experiences look like a breeze. At least I’m not being poisoned by co-workers, and my reports haven’t been lost mysteriously because they don’t want to hear what I have to say. And the fact that she struggled so much and now runs a highly regarded international organization gives me plenty of hope!

La Playa

February 20, 2012 - This weekend we Tres Gringas escaped to the beach to enjoy some warm weather and sun! I left Friday with Lisa for the 5-5.5 hour journey to Ilo. What an experience. We took a colectivo/cooperativa/combi, which is basically a 12-passenger van. Not the most comfortable of journeys but I fortunately had lots of leg room as I was right behind the driver.  We arrived at the office at 1:30 for our 2 p.m. trip. Well we didn’t end up boarding the van until 3 p.m. and leaving until 3:30. Apparently they just wait until it is full, even if that takes FOREVER. So eventually we excitedly get on the road only to stop a few blocks away for the driver to get a new spare tire. Which turned out to be good because we needed it not too long into the drive. Finally we are on the road around 4 p.m. The views were beautiful as we left the city, passed the lake, and wound around curvy roads with green hills and bizarre rock formations. Then, slowly, the vegetation turned drier and more sparse as we left the altiplano and headed for the mountains. We made one more stop along the way (in addition to the tire change) to pick up an extra passenger. Yeah, just some guy with a suitcase waving down the combi who had to squish in the back with two other adults and two children. Felt a bit like a train in India.

As night fell we climbed up snowcapped mountains and it started to snow. A few hours later, unbeknownst to us at the time because it was dark, we entered the desert. And finally we arrived at the beach. So within just a few hours journey we encountered four unique geographies and went through huge temperature drop and then climb back up.

Exhausted, we arrived in Ilo at our quaint little hotel, delighted by the warm breeze coming in the window. One of the best feelings was taking my socks off for bed, instead of putting on an extra pair, and sleeping under only a sheet. Ahhh…..

Saturday morning I woke up early and went for a run on the boardwalk. Ilo is definitely a port town, but with gorgeous views. The juxtaposition of desert and ocean is beautiful and jarring.


After my run, I returned back to the hotel to find out that we had no water, a common theme here in Peru, and had to wait two hours for a shower. But at last, I was clean, and we were ready to explore. Lisa and I had a nice breakfast at the market consisting of watermelon and churros. Then we wondered over to the Plaza de Armas, which is friendly and flower-filled. I couldn’t resist an helado on the street next to the plaza, which has probably five ice cream shops and five chifa restaurants. Then we headed to the beach. Again, bizarre because of the desert setting, you have to take a taxi about 10-15 minutes through industrial parks and vacant desert hills until you turn down a long dusty road that ultimately ends in a beach. With hundreds of colorful umbrellas and chairs, it didn’t look so different than Ocean City, MD, except for the desert behind you.

We were quite conspicuous as gringas but ignored the stares and plopped ourselves down for several hours of sun bathing. The water was cold but refreshing, and the sun was super strong. After a few hours, we settled in at a cevicheria off the beach but were disappointed with the quality of the food. Then finally Angela arrived from Arequipa, just as the sun was starting to fall in the sky and the wind was picking up. At first we worried that we’d be cold that night but once we got back to the city we found it was still pleasantly warm and perfect for a walk to a restaurant for dinner and then home. We also watched the movie 50/50, which is very good if you haven’t seen it.

Sunday I woke up early again and read my book until the other girls got up. Then we ventured off to find breakfast. Finally fed and satisfied with coffee, we went to get our tickets home. However, there were no buses until the evening and they were all full anyways. Ugh. So after some running around we determined we’d have to take the combi again, from Moquegua, the hub in that area. But first we’d have to take a bus there. We had a few hours to spare so we relaxed in the grass near the boardwalk, soaking in our last few hours of sun. We had a quick lunch – and were pleased to find some good ceviche although the service was not good – and then headed to the bus station. Worried we’d be late, we had to laugh when we showed up on time and were the first people on the bus.

The hour or so drive to Moquegua was so interesting because it revealed the beautiful desert we’d driven through Friday night without even knowing it. Moquegua, on the other hand, left much to be desired, so we tried to get out of there as fast as possible. However, we were again stuck on a combi waiting one passenger. “Uno para Puno” we heard for over an hour as they tried to fill our van. At one point a passenger, a young guy, got out and joined in the advertising. Finally we got our uno para Puno and headed off. This trip was also interesting although it was quickly too dark to see much of the countryside, but the sunset over the desert hills in bright reds was breathtaking. We made one stop about halfway and the stars were so bright and plentiful, I could have stayed their gazing for awhile but was quickly hurried back in by the other passengers. At last we arrived back in Puno. I was happy to see the city lights and get off the bus and back to my room, but I was not happy to be welcomed back by frigid temperatures. We may have to take another beach trip soon!

Test, Test, and Test Again

February 15, 2012 - I learned a very valuable lesson today. In class our professors (especially Dr. Baird) always talk about the importance of testing surveys, and of course I would never do one without testing, but that said, nothing prepared me for how horrible my first few results were going to be. Several respondents skipped entire pages. They answered no but still marked selections for the "if yes, then" questions. I realized one entire section of questions only had responses for never, in the last year, or in the last two years, leaving anyone who had done the procedure more than two years ago with nothing to select. I found out indirect questions like "edad" were confusing when "cuántos años tiene" is much easier. Only six people tested it and I changed almost every question in the survey, even if only slightly.

So, later this week I'll hopefully have my new and improved survey approved and ready for more testing. Then next week, pending IRB approval, I'll be able to "poner en marcha" (start collecting surveys) during the two major health campaign days at the centers.

Unrelated note, I can now add "graffiti remover" to my resume. Never a dull moment!

Music, Fireworks, Dancing & Rain

Today and tomorrow are the last two days of the Candelaria festival so I thought I'd post some pictures and share a bit about it. I think once it is over I will miss spontaneous parades and dance parties in the streets of Puno!

Last weekend we went to see the dances in the stadium, which was a fun experience although as far as watching dances the parades are more up close and personal. Interestingly, Pro Mujer had its mobile medical clinic at the stadium in case of any health problems and it was so unexpectedly warm that day that the major health problem was that many of the dancers had gone barefoot and burned their feet.

Dances at the stadium

Sporting our "Yo <3 Candelaria hats"

Adorable little boy dancers

 Our friend Marita danced with a group. We didn't get to actually see her dance, but here she is in here awesome costume. (Check out the shoes. They make them out of recycled rubber from tires.)

Marita in her dance costume.

When the parade moved to the streets it seemed to lose some of the refined cultural and turn into more of a drunken celebration. So much so in fact that we called it an early night because the crowds were a little too raucous and we stuck out as Gringos.

I was waiting for the horses to charge the crowd at any moment. They did not seem happy.

This weekend the city is filled with many more tourists, however, so we are certainly not the only Gringos. Friday night the music and fireworks continued well into the night. I finally fell asleep at 1:30 and it was still going on at 6:30 when I woke up. Apparently it never stopped and they just partied throughout the night! Last night we watched parades again. The costumes were more colorful, many featuring masks, devil horns, and short skirts for the girls - an interesting contrast from the traditional rural outfits of last weekend. Unfortunately my camera battery died so no pictures. :( Last night was the presentation of the bands and my there were many bands! At one point we were literally standing in between a band playing on one side of the park ("we're with the band") when it suddenly started down pouring. Not uncommon here in Puno. So we raced backed to the safety and dryness of Angie's apartment and stayed in for the rest of the night. No fear though, there will be more dancing today and tomorrow! And Monday is a "día libre" in other words the office is closed. Although I'll probably spend the day writing my CE proposal and applying for jobs.

How Things Really Work: Lesson 2

February 7, 2012 – What an eye-opening day I had today. I spent the day at the two Centros Focales in Puno. It was fascinating to observe the work of the obstetrices and talk with them about the challenges they face.

I began my day at Laykokota with Rosmery, a bubbly, charismatic woman who may be more excited about healthy breasts and uteri than anyone I’ve ever met! She is resilient despite facing the daily challenge of trying to get the women who come to repay their loans to also come see her in the Consultorio for whatever health problem they may have or to get diagnostic tests done including PAP smears, breast exams, blood pressure measures, glucose measures, and BMI measures. It seems to me she is driven by two things – her genuine desire for the women to be healthy and the metrics she must meet each month. However, her job is more challenging than I ever imagined.

The women come to pay their loans once a month and this process is incredibly hectic. There are several groups in the office at a time and all the women want to get in and out as quickly as possible. Which is understandable, in many cases they have traveled quite a ways to get here, and they have businesses and families to run. So getting them to even listen to you for a few minutes is a challenge.

Another challenge is the pressure they face during this repayment meeting. For example, in the first meeting I sat in on five women didn’t show up, so all the group members were frantically calling to remind them and had to wait for several hours until nearly all arrived. If not, they would have had to make up the difference and pay for their group members who were missing. You might think this would give you plenty of time with a captive audience to talk health, but not so much. The women are counting and recounting money and herding their small children who are running around. Not to mention they are likely worried about the fact that they may have to pay extra this month, and the repercussions that may have on their families and businesses, and the reaction from their husbands. That immediate threat likely outweighs any concern they might have of their long-term health.

Despite these challenges, Rosmery does her best, enthusiastically explaining the importance of these diagnostic tests and taking care of their health. Unfortunately, likely because of the goals, much of her promotion efforts are more about testing than actual preventative health information. At the end of each short session, she tries to get women to make an appointment. Not many do. They are afraid, can’t afford it (despite steeply discounted prices), or simply don’t believe they need these tests. When women do come for their tests, and in some cases get positive results, they rarely do anything about it. The obstetrices recommend follow up tests, oncologist visits, and diet changes, but very few women take these next steps.

In the afternoon I went to Bellavista and talked with Zelmira, a very different personality. She is quieter, more serious, but still very nice and obviously committed. She vocalized many of these same challenges as Rosmery. She has a half dozen flipcharts for sessions on various topics but said she rarely has time to use them with the women. She explained that the “mass” education sessions (which I had read about in the official Pro Mujer manual) rarely actually happen and really boil down to these frantic sessions squeezed into payment meetings like I observed with Rosmery.

So an eye-opening day indeed. I closed the day feeling a mixture of frustration and inspiration to help. I have some ideas about referral programs and incentives, but would love ideas from all of you, especially my fellow MPHers who may have seen similar situations around the world. How do you incentivize women to seek health services? How do you reach them with preventative health messages when formal health education seminars and training sessions aren’t really an option? Please comment here or email me with ideas. Thanks!

Whirlwind Weekend

February 6, 2012 – Wow, what a weekend. I had a wonderful 30^th birthday celebration with my new friends that included dinner at Mojsa, one of the nicest restaurants in Puno, cake, a house party, and dancing at a club. Then Saturday I enjoyed a lazy day catching up with family via Skype. Sunday was the first big day of dances for the festival so we went to the stadium and watched for a few hours. It was a beautiful day and I even got a little sunburned. After the dances we went to a cevecheria and I braved the ceviche – ¡Qué delicioso! That evening we watched more parades in the streets. So much music and dancing I felt like I was on sensory overload. But overall I feel like I’m really starting to get settled in here and enjoy all the people I’ve met.

Today was an interesting day at work. I spent some time in the morning with one of the obstetrices who answered all my questions about the consultorio (health center) and reviewed my surveys. Then I met with my preceptor to discuss surveys and interviews. Good news is he liked all my questions. Bad news is the process is going to be much more of an undertaking than I thought. First, there is not a complete database of customers like I thought, so I’ll have to try to recruit them in person at the centros focales. We decided to hold off on the client satisfaction survey (which is a good approach I think, and means less work for me) but the lifestyles/health behavior survey I drafted is now top priority. Plus it is no longer just a simple survey I can hand off to the obstetrices to give to the clients. My preceptor wants a statistically significant sample, which means 350+ surveys, so I have to try to recruit clients during their loan payment meetings. Luckily, I’m ahead of schedule for my work plan so hopefully I can get this survey rolling before my interviews go into full swing. I’m still a little concerned about convincing women to spend an hour with me for the interviews, but the good news is Doctor Alfonso liked my interview guide and made only grammatical corrections and no major changes.

Tomorrow I’ll be at the centers all day and then Thursday I’m going to one of the mobile clinics/health fairs. So that should be exciting, always nice to get out of the office.

Work Hard, Play Hard

February 2, 2012 - It has been an interesting few days, chugging along at work and getting to know how things work and also enjoying the festival at night. (Or in the morning, like on the 1^st when fireworks and music started at 4 a.m., although I can’t really say I enjoyed it).

Had an interesting conversation today with Angie about how the integration between micro-finance and health can be messy. She put it quite well, that when you try to talk in health terms like quality of care, the majority of Pro Mujer staff (even in the health department) talk in “the language of micro-finance” with costs, risk, return, and sustainability being their number one priority. Which is an interesting perspective, not right or wrong, just interesting. It seems Pro Mujer, like many micro-finance organizations I’ve read about, is still struggling to find that balance. Pro Mujer was started with a broader social goal than just micro-finance, so it’s health focus is not new per se, but it is definitely secondary. For example, the micro-finance side have dozens of staff while health has two. I’m hoping that my work will help contribute to a better understanding of how successful (or not) the health side is and what improvements can be made.

Another interesting thing I noticed is that in my epidemiology research I have been looking for information specific to Peru or atleast Latin America. Today my supervisor said he is less worried about context/culture specificity and more worried about evidence-based medicine. So I guess he’d rather try to adapt an idea that has worked in another country and is well documented than go with an idea that only has one small study backing it up but is context specific. Again, not sure the right answer, but tucking it away to think about later. Maybe like everything you need a balance.

Also wanted to share this link with pictures of the festival yesterday. This was the most religious day, where the Virgen is paraded into the streets.

How Things Really Work: Lesson One

January 31, 2012 - Had a productive meeting today with Doctor Alfonso where we reviewed my analysis so far and he seemed pretty happy with what I had done and answered some of my lingering questions and guided me in a few areas. It seems like my client satisfaction survey may also be turning into a lifestyles survey (to find out, for example, what our clients eat, how many sexual partners they have, how often they exercise, etc.), which likely means two separate surveys so I have to think about the logistics for that. The good news is that the majority of the women in Puno can read and write Spanish.

Perhaps even more productive was the talk I had with Angie after where she explained how things really work with regards to patient follow up. I have seen how difficult follow up can be in other countries and suspected it was a problem here just from looking at the statistics (for example they have rates of how many positive PAPs but not actual cervical cancer diagnoses). I also know that Pro Mujer is relatively new to Peru (compared to the other countries it works in) and is still ironing out processes. So that is what Angie is focusing on for her internship. But I was shocked to learn that there really isn’t a formal referral process if a woman has a positive PAP or if the obstetriz notices anything in her breast exam. So basically they find out they might have cancer and then they have no idea what to do. If any of you are as shocked as me, don’t worry, we’re working on it. I suggested a “coupon” idea like PSI used for IUDs in India, and Angie has some other great ideas too. Another reality check is that currently Pro Mujer offers no family planning. They “consult” with women about methods, but can’t prescribe, insert, inject, etc. any methods. We’re working on that too, but in the meantime, I’m curious and plan to include in my research where else the woman are getting family planning methods, if anywhere.

On a lighter note, had a great lunch today at a restaurant that is very popular with the staff – Ukuku’s. They have a fixed menu for 10 soles that includes a starter (today a dip similar to guacamole), soup (quinoa of course), main dish (chicken stuffed with spinach, peppers, and cheese in a sweetish sauce with rice and fries) and dessert (a fruit dish – all peeled thanks goodness!). One funny cultural thing I’ve noticed with every group of people I’ve eaten with is that they all want to talk about how much obesity there is in the US. Which is ironic when we are eating a huge, not so healthy lunch. Also ironic because the three Americans who work at Pro Mujer are all skinny. But always interesting to hear how Americans are perceived in other countries.

This weekend is shaping up to be quite fun with one other staff birthday and a going away party!

Back from the dead

January 30, 2012 - After two days of misery I am finally recovering and will definitely be more careful about what I eat. The thing is, I thought I WAS being careful. I guess not. SO, went to the store today and bought lots more water and packaged food I can cook for myself. I will remember not to drink lemonade when the entire table does at lunch and I will boil water for soup longer or, even better, just use bottled. Lesson learned, let’s hope I don’t have to relearn it again! The only good thing about this weekend is I read two books.

So I have not exciting weekend adventures to report. Work is chugging along and going to pick up really soon I think. Spanish skills didn’t make much progress this weekend, but gotta forgive myself for that one. More later this week.

Random Thoughts

January 26, 2012 - Not much to report today so I'll just list some random thoughts I've been meaning to share.

1. People in Puno take their festivals seriously. They have been practicing for more than a month, some people all year. Can't wait for the big festivities.

2. My landlord, Hernan, calls me Kellicita. Love it!

3. I ate Ramen for dinner tonight. Yep, you're jealous.

4. Stats suck, even in Spanish. But I was pretty proud of my skills today, thanks to a little help from my economist sister.

5. A filling on my tooth broke off today, good times, but I don't think I'll be braving the Peruvian dental system anytime soon!

6. I may or may not be getting addicted to a telenovela called Decisiones.

7. Along the same lines with guilty pleasures, I found they have delicious ice cream here for only 2 soles. Another reason I'm going to gain a millions pounds.

Ok seven feels like a weird number but I'm in a weird mood, so that's all for now.

Bienvenida a Pro Mujer

January 25, 2012 – Sorry I’ve been slacking but wanted to update everyone on my first few days of work. First, Sunday night I met the other American intern, Angie, and an American consultant, Mariano, who is working here for another couple weeks, and we had dinner together. It was nice to know them before I walked into the office Monday morning.

I was so nervous I could hardly sleep and I woke up early Monday to study more Spanish. But no cramming really can prepare you for arriving at an office where you are expected to speak another language the entire time. Regardless, I arrived a few minutes before 8:30, hoofed up the three flights of stairs, and quickly met my boss/preceptor Doctor Alfonso Medina Bocanegra, the director of health and human development. He is very nice and welcome me right away with a long “speech” about Pro Mujer, which was great because I understood everything he said but didn’t have to speak other than to nod or say bueno/si/claro every so often. Then the other pasantes arrived and I realized there was not room for us in the office, so me and Angie moved to a conference room for the day, which was nice because we could speak in English. Doctor Alfonso sat down with me for about an hour going over some presentations with background on the organization and then sent me a work plan to start drafting. I had lunch with Angie and Carlos, a Pro Mujer employee who lives in the same building as me, (a great meal of soup and a chicken and rice dish for less than $2) and spent the rest of the day reviewing documents and brushing up on Spanish business and health vocab.

The next day was not quite so smooth. First, Angie was not here so it was a bit lonely in my conference room. In fact, I hardly spoke to anyone all day. Then I had a meeting with my boss about my work plan objectives and he gave me a laundry list of things he wants me to do in three months. As if a qualitative study is not enough, he also suggested a systematic analysis of their processes in their health centers, a review of their communications techniques, an epidemiologic and statistical analysis of their health center results, and a customer satisfaction survey. Gee, no big deal. So I pushed back a bit but overall said I’d think about what I thought was feasible. I ended up eating alone for lunch and dinner, which is no fun, because the internet was out so I couldn’t meet up with a friend. And I couldn’t Skype with anyone back home. So I went to bed feeling a bit lonely. Bleh.

The view from my office window of the main street in Puno, Jiron Lima.

 

But today was back on the upswing. In the morning I helped my boss with an urgent search for any reports on gender violence and micro-credit, which I just so happened to have because of the lit review I’m doing with Dr. Gurman. Then he took me on a tour to the two centros focales in Puno, which is where Pro Mujer clients come to pay their monthly loan payments, receive training, and access health services. All of the staff I met were very nice and while I got some strange looks from the women themselves, I think they will be welcoming once they start to see me there more often. Doctor Alfonso introduced me to the staff and each time either jokingly said that I was from the U.S. so they’d have to speak in English to me (to which they gasped and blushed until he said it was a joke) or honestly said she speaks Spanish but there are some words she doesn’t know so if she gets confused please help her. In particular I enjoyed meeting the obstetrices (basically nurse midwives) who I’ll be working closely with.

After the visits, Doctor Alfonso took me to the market because he wanted to buy some chocolate and I found peanut butter, which I had looked in no less than five other places for, so I bought it even though it was more than $5. When we arrived back at the office, the doctor invited me to lunch and we ended up going with a large group including Mariano and another Peruvian intern, Marita. I was certainly not the most talkative of the bunch but was able to mostly follow the conversation and respond when spoken too. It’s funny how my personality is different in Spanish because I have to think about what I’m going to say and can’t just blurt it out in my usual fast-talking way. Anyways, I split chicharron del mar with Marita, which was basically a bunch of fried seafood and potatoes. A little too much fried stuff for me, but good. We also had chicha, a drink made from purple maiz, and leche de tigre, which is the marinade leftover from ceviche and is apparently great for hangovers. Both were interesting and decent tasting. So far my favorite drink here (besides of course the delicious fresh juices) has been the warm wine they make with pisco in it, so basically warm sangria.

Anyways, back to work, this afternoon I finished my work plan so now I’m waiting for my boss to approve it. I managed to whittle it down to a manageable workload (I think!). Hasta luego…..

Andean Explorer = Once in a lifetime experience

January 22, 2012 - Wow is all I can say about my 10 hour journey yesterday on the Andean Explorer from Cuzco to Puno. Even without contrasting it to my previous train experiences (sure NE USA and Europe have nice trains, Bangkok to Southern Thailand sleeper train was fun with my buddies Josh and Colleen and Mike, India third class train was an experience I will never forget and not in a good way) this train was amazing. From the moment I dropped off my bag and walked into the receiving room where a group was playing traditional Cuzco music, it was a delightfully-touristy experience that was just authentic enough not to be too cheesy.

Stepping into Coach A (the only passenger coach) was like stepping back into the early 1900s. Not that I have ever been on a train from the early 1900s, but it was just like the movies. White tableclothes, dim lamps, comfy chairs that look like they came from my great-grandma's living room, a little vase with a rose. Beautiful. And the service staff was amazing. There was capacity for maybe 50 passengers but were only about 20 on board. By the end of the trip we had all chatted and shared travel advice. I met a very nice and interesting women named Mitey and also some guys who lived in Bethesda.
 

After we exited Cuzco city limits we were invited to the rear coach which is the observation deck with huge windows on the sides and ceiling and an open back. I've posted a few pictures here but there are tons more on Facebook.

 

Shortly after departing we were treated to more music from Cuzco and a fashion show of knitwear.

 Then the landscape really became beautiful as we began climbing to 4,321 meters above sea level, past snow capped mountains, to La Raya. There we stopped at a local market and I bought a sweater that is supposedly alpaca. I don't really care - it is warm!

After getting back on the train I had a delicious lunch of quinoa soup, trout filet with plantain/sweet potato-ish mixture on side, and chocolate mousse, plus a glass of Peruvian wine. (I didn't know they made wine in Peru, it was a decent Malbec.)

As we arrived on the altiplano, the landscape had started to flatten out and get less exciting aside from the random llama or alpaca herd grazing nearby, so I took a short siesta and read for a bit. Then it was back to the lounge for bar tending lessons. After a demonstration, my new friend Mitey made a pisco sour, which is not easy on a rickety train. Then there was more music and traditional dances, this time from Puno.

One of the dancers made everyone get up and dance with her so video of me dancing may be leaked at some point ;) 

Next it was afternoon tea time, which was accompanied with mini sandwiches and chocolates, and a drink similar to a mimosa but with a different kind of juice (maybe mango?). Soon after we passed through Juliaca, which was crowded and rundown. Then the landscape began to change a bit as we neared Puno. First I noticed the terrain became very rocky with mountains in the horizon, not as close to the train like earlier. Then we started seeing small marshes and streams, foretelling of the lake. And finally I got my first glimpse of Lake Titicaca. At first it was just a narrow strip and I thought "that's it?" but then as we continued I saw it was a long but narrow lake worthy of its renown. Arriving into Puno city at dusk was a little bit of a let down compared to the wonderous landscapes of the countryside, but I felt a nervous anticipation as I arrived in my home for the next three months.



I checked into my room on Jiron Azoguine. It is quite large, probably near the size of me and Mike's first apartment minus a kitchen. I have a bed, wardrobe, desk, small couch, TV, private bath, and big window overlooking the city with the lake in the distance. My room is in a building that is basically a long-term inn connected to Hernan's house, with a small restaurant downstairs  (where I can have breakfast for 1 sol). I spoke with the landlord, Hernan, about using the kitchen to cook dinner at night. So I think this place will work out just fine, as long as the shower situation gets better. It was cold last night :( In fact, it is cold in Puno in general. You don't realize how much we take heaters for granted in the US. Last night I slept in two layers of PJ pants (one fleece), wool socks, an under armor shirt and fleece, and a wool hat, plus my bed has four wool blankets. Definitely have to buy some more warm stuff at the market! 


Ok that's all off to explore now.

El Monzon

January 21, 2012 - Had an amazing trip to Puno, will update soon. For now, here is:

January 20, 2012 - Today was my last day in Cuzco and what a day it was! I had my last classes. Just before our lunch break we had a cooking demonstration by Mariela, one of my professors. She made Causa Rellena and it was delicious. It was a “salad” served kind of like a cold casserole and basically consisted of a mixture of mashed yellow potatoes with lemon juice layered with avocado, boiled eggs, and tuna salad, plus a few peppers and olives (the latter of which I of course picked off) for garnish. It had a lot of mayonnaise in it so I would probably tone that down if I made it myself, which I plan to do in Puno.

Then in the afternoon I ran some errands including confirming my train ticket for tomorrow morning (Perurail.com turned out to be real, check) and picking up small gifts for my professors. Then in the afternoon I suggested to my professor Dorian that we go to a nearby festival because my host mom had mentioned the school sometimes takes students. He agreed it was a good idea so we left around 4:30, right as the sky was starting to turn dark. What a shame too because early in the day it had been really cold and then turned into a beautiful afternoon with sunshine and 75+ degrees. But right as we got to the festival it started to rain. It was just a light rain so we walked around and watched numerous traditional dances. They had the brightest, most colorful and detailed (sequined!) costumes I’ve ever seen and the music was infectious. The festival is in honor of San Sebastian, the saint of the village, which is now part of Cuzco municipality. In addition to dances, music, and tons of people, there were street vendors selling everything from balloons and cotton candy to pirated DVDs and food stands serving delicious-smelling-but-probably-completely-unsanitary food that I did not eat. Also saw my first cuy (guinea pig) on a stick.

So right as we were watching the final procession as all the dancers were leaving it started to pour. I’m talking monsoon. I had on my raincoat but not my umbrella and Dorian had neither. So we ran to an awning and stood there for what seemed like an eternity before he finally agreed with me that the rain was not going to let up and we should make a run for a taxi. At this point only my feet were completely dry (thanks Kathy and Jim for the great boots!). Even my trusty raincoat had failed me and water was starting to seep in, plus it was a cold rain – the worst. So finally we made a run for it and got a taxi. When we got in and started driving we realized the streets were rivers. It reminded me of when we were in India during monsoon season. And I truly thought our taxi was going to wash out like so many cars we passed. What on the way seemed like a short drive took forever and I finally arrived at my host family’s house looking like a drowned rat.

Dorian told me on the way home that this is the worst rain he has seen in Cuzco in years. It was even on the news tonight. Lluvia loca! Needless to say I did not go to dinner with some other students from the school as I had planned. (Thankfully my host mom graciously made me dinner – platanos again! – even though I had told her I wouldn’t be home.) I have a feeling the other students may have stayed inside too…it is still raining.